Innsbruck 12/19-12/22

The ride to Innsbruck began in a brief snowstorm, which tapered off. The ride was uneventful, until we reached the Alps. The roads winded through valleys next to shear cliff faces. There were long tunnels with spectacular views of snow-capped peaks waiting at the end, before the next tunnel began. There was avalanche protection in the form of huge concrete overhead awnings.

In Innsbruck, we were somewhat lost, but my dad spotted the Pension, our Innsbruck residence, from across the river, nearly a mile away. "Does that say Pension Paula on the building he asked?" He took some flak before we realized he was 100% correct. The pension was a bed and breakfast, but our first look at our room left us a little nervous. Quarters were tight to say the least, with one room, 3 beds and a chair and table at the center, with little space in between. Things have been known to get testy between the Bachmans, and confining spaces can stoke the flames. When we left Innsbruck, we agreed that it was remarkable we got along so well, and that the room was not so bad after all. Neither was the breakfast served by proprietor Herr Gunsch. I continued my hostel-bred habit of maximum caloric intake during a free meal, working from cereal to sandwiches and back again.

Herr Gunsch watches us leave. My dad read the sign from across the river, while driving.

After settling in and unpacking we ate our first and one of our best meals at a Gasthaus, a traditional Austrian restaurant. While I had been spoiled with delicious food all week in Lyon and Zurich, the rest of the family vociferously praised the meal. Afterward, we crossed the river ____ and visited the Christkindlsmarkt. Matt and I sampled the Hauspunsch, one of the many available heated beverages. We went to sleep early.

In the morning we headed into the city to check out the sights. While the city itself was pleasant but ultimately forgettable, the mountain backdrop was otherworldly.

Innsbruck







Inn River through Innsbruck, the city's name translates to bridge over the Inn (river)




The Golden Roof, Innsbruck's trademark tourist sight, was built as a viewing area for sovereigns to watch sporting events below.

We stopped for a coffee at a local brewery, where world cup skiing was on TV. Matt was instantly cured of his grumpiness - Austria is reputed to have good coffee. In the afternoon we drove to one of Innsbruck's many ski areas, Mutters, a pint-sized area, with a single gondola. We parked and followed signs to a hiking trail. The trail was a summer-time road, and snow covered, but not too challenging. Excitement was provided by tobaggoners - the road was also a toboggan path - who flew past at dangerous speeds, and almost side-swiped my parents on a particularly hairy hairpin. The trail crossed ski trails from time to time, providing openings for spectacular views, which became sunset views later on. We made it to a mountain restaurant, but the owner said she was closed. We lingered taking in the view as shadows engulfed the furthest peaks on the horizon.

Hiking in Mutters

After the hike we drove back to Innsbruck. We picked an Italian restaurant, where we were the lone diners. The Italian owner was very friendly, and not so busy, so he chatted with us during and after the meal. Italy is just south of Austria, but the owner complained about how cold it was, and indicated he preferred his native land. He called out my mom, "You no like the soup?", and she had no ready response - she really didn't like the soup. We hoped she hadn't gotten the cook in trouble.

Matt and I went out for drinks at a nearby bar and came back to the pension stinking of cigarettes. In the morning we filled up at breakfast and headed to Axamer-Lizum, one of the better-regarded Innsbruck mountains and site of the 1976 Women's Olympic Downhill. The views were incredible. Matt and I tried out some of the off-piste, while our parents watched from below. Aside from digging up some brush and rocks from time-to-time, we were skiing a few inches of powder on some really steep terrain. When I went back to Vermont a few weeks later, the mountain seemed completely flat. In Austria, the lifts actually went up.

The Bachmans at Axamer-Lizum

Top of Axamer-Lizum, the crucifix reminds us that this is not the Himalayas

The next day, we headed to the Stubai Glacier to explore a little and do some hiking. We checked out the ski area, but there wasn't much to see - only two side-by-side gondolas that disappeared up and over a ridge. We backtracked down the highway to look for a hiking trail when we spotted some people walking uphill. We parked and followed a road that lead to a hiking path. We switchbacked through steep pastures and ended up at a family-owned hotel/restaurant/farm. Past the cows on the right was the cozy dining room with only two tables.

This could be anywhere in Austria, but I think it's from hiking outside Fulpmes, near the Stubai Glacier

Matt and me outside the restaurant. The meal definitely came with a view.

On our last night in Innsbruck, Matt and I decided to really experience the nightlife. I made an ipod map of a few locations recommended on the internet, and we set out. We stopped at an Irish pub, for a drink, but the scene was a little too laid back. We checked out the next three locations on my map - all closed or unimpressive. As we stopped to look at the map, a late-twenties local asked us if we needed directions. We don't really know where we're going, we said, explaining our situation. He told us to follow him - he would show us a party. We ended up at the Hofgarten, an outdoor cafe in the park that had been covered and heated for winter-time use. There was a bar and dancefloor, both packed with the local crowd. We had a great time - Matt is a dancing machine, and had me laughing the entire time. German was the only language I heard, except when I was greeted by an Icelandic fellow redhead. "My brother from another mother," he shouted to me.

That night we went to the Buzzihutte, an excellent traditional restaurant where I had yet another rich, delicious meal. Located up a hill well above the city, the restaurant appeared to be a converted home. The clientele was local, and even featured a couple with their respective dogs at their feet.

In the morning we departed Innsbruck for our next destination, the land of Mozart, Salzburg.